Best Patagonia Hiking Tours for spectacular scenery – A First-Timer Hiker’s Personal Journal to Patagonia

I can only talk from my experience as a first-time hiker in Patagonia. These are the best Patagonia hiking Tours and trails for spectacular scenery, which I experienced and left me in awe: 

• Hiking Tour to Mirador de los Cóndores (Condors’ Lookout could be a fair translation). This is an easy, short hike, perfect for your first day in El Chaltén and for getting a taste of the hiking trails you can choose on the following days.

• The Glaciar Cagliero hiking trail is also known as “Hiking trail to Refugio Cagliero” -because there is one at the top, and you can overnight. They also call it “Hiking trail to Laguna Diablo”, in English: “The Devil’s Lagoon”. However, I have hardly seen such a heavenly spot in my life. I would say it is a long and hard trail (because of the steady ascent and the duration), but I wouldn’t miss it.

• The Glaciar Huemul hiking tour. “Glaciar” is the Spanish for “glacier”, and the Huemul is a stunning example of a “hanging glacier”. They call it that because it seems to be “hanging” from the slope of the mountain, floating over the lagoon. For me, after completing the “Glacier Cagliero hiking trail,” it was not that hard to hit the summit. Although there is a rocky part of the trail, it speeds up the 2-hour ascent a bit. Completely worthy.

• Hiking tour in Fitz Roy Valley. This is a long hike (6 to 8 hours), and it was one of the first official hiking circuits in El Chaltén. Thus, a classic! The positive thing about this hiking tour is that it comes in many versions according to your time and walking capabilities. You can decide to make the way from town to Laguna de los Tres, or choose a shorter version. You’ll first reach Poincenot Campsite and start the descent to town, passing by the marvelous rocky beach of Laguna Capri. 

I kept a personal journal and wrote all about the hiking experiences I had as a first-time hiker in Patagonia. And it was completely transforming, let me tell you. 

Let’s start with the first hiking tour I experienced, called Mirador de los Cóndores.

El Chaltén is the hiker’s paradise in Patagonia, Argentina. It is 3 hours away from El Calafate (where people go to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier). Only reachable by land transportation.

It offers a complete bird’s-eye view of the town nestled between the rivers and mountains. Plus, you can see Mount Fitz Roy and its summit on a clear day. If you add condors flying nearby, the spectacular scenery crystallizes.

The starting point of this hike, the guides tell us, is not far from the town’s entrance. The same bridge we crossed a couple of hours ago, we crossed on foot.

It’s 5 pm, and the weather is colder. I feel it in spite of the layers I wear. I’m not worried; once I start to walk, I’ll heat up. 

One of the guides chats with me while we walk. She tells me about life in El Chaltén, how long she has been living in town, and what it feels like to stay there all year round. Many only stay for the season.

The wind has become stronger since we left. We stop at the National Park entrance checkpoint and show our multiday pass. We bought online to access all the trails in the forthcoming days. The tour guides make a second stop at the entrance of the trail, marked by an informative sign. 

Read Hiking to Mirador de los Cóndores full story.

This hiking trail is in the Private Reserve Los Huemules, 0.6 miles from El Chaltén. You can book a transfer from town; the scenery of the route is beautiful. The multiday pass to the National Park doesn’t include the Reserve. You should buy a separate entrance to it.

• VERY IMPORTANT! You should call before and make a reservation to visit for the day, specifying the trail you want to do. 
• They keep a very strict schedule to reduce the ecological impact of visitors. 
• It may occur if a trail runs out of scheduled visiting hours for the day you want, so it’s important to make reservations in advance. 
• The opening hour is from 9 am to 6 pm., time by which you should be checking out in the visitor center. 

Because it’s a defiant first long hike for beginners. And if you take it during your first days, chances are you’ll find other hikes easier after it. 

The amazing scenery you’ll appreciate when you finally reach the refuge at the bottom of Cagliero Glacier, and the Devil’s Lagoon (a mirror of water formed by the meltwater of the glacier) is beyond description. 

I have never accomplished something like that in my life, and I believe it is the farthest-into-nature place I have ever been. When I was taking my hot beverage at the warm side of the wood stove inside the refuge, looking upon the glacier covered by snow and the gentle rain, I felt happy, completely alive. Stronger than ever. 

This hiking trail is also in the Private Reserve Los Huemules. However, you will enter from a different side, from where you’ll also reach the coast of the Lake of Desert. 

• VERY IMPORTANT! Think of buying your entrance for a second day too. 
• Be there as early as possible to avoid crowds. Many people come to take the navigation over the Lake, and they leave from the same place as hikers.

It is not a long hike and is gratifying. Chances are you see families of woodpeckers, especially in the first part of the trail when you skirt the river and move through the forest.

There is something amazing about this forest; most trees suffer from the same curious phenomenon as a “smiling” mold growing in their bark. 

There is a spectacular view of the valley and the surrounding mountains you can reach before the summit, and this is quite easy to reach. 

It is true that the last 20 minutes of the trail are roughly big rocks among trees, but there is a fixed rope that helps a lot and makes you feel a lot more secure. 

This hike is also one of the best Patagonia hiking tours for spectacular scenery, because you can see both the glacier and the Fitz Roy, if you’re lucky.

And we were!

This is a round-trip hike, departing from about 10 miles (at Río Eléctrico bridge) away and ending sheerly in one of the main town’s avenues. 

• We took a transfer that dropped us at the bridge in a few minutes. 
• The out gate led to a big parking site, which, by the time I went (end of March), was pretty empty. Generally is full of people and cars during high season, according to the tour guide accompanying me. 

This is the last hiking trail I made in my 4-day trip to El Chaltén. I was not sure if I could reach Laguna de los Tres, the longest version of the Fitz Roy Valley hike, which is very popular. The thing is that, after a couple of uninterrupted hiking activity days, I felt no prepared for the challenge.

I heard about this shorter version of the trail and decided to go for it. I was sure to get the same spectacular views of the valley because both versions share this part of the hike. I promise I felt that, if I was meant to see a puma, that valley was the place where the acquaintance should happen.

The second stop is about Poincenot Campsite, one of the two locations you can choose to spend the night. Many reach the campsite and spend the night. About sunrise, they leave for Laguna de los Tres, seeking a very spectacular scenery: the Fitz Roy peaks glowing in a beautiful shade of rose colors.

But, if, like me, you chose not to overnight, from Poincenot, you can start the way back to town passing by Laguna Capri, a place I can not believe exists on Earth. I literally thought about moving there, constructed my log cottage on that rocky beach facing the lake and the mountains. That this kind of place could be just one hour away from town, the time we finally spent to end the trail and reach the parking lot, amazed me.

The thing is, I felt all this during this hike, even in the extreme conditions, and I made it. As they say, when the heart of a story (a film, a book, even a person) is good, the shape in which it comes is not important. I agree.

That morning, I woke up in my hotel room, seeing the purring rain through my window. While I was having breakfast, it occurred to me that it may get clearer by the time we start the hike. 

But it did not.

Soon enough, I had no single dry wear on me. I came prepared, I had my raincoat, my globes, my hiking boots, which I supposed to be waterproof… 

The thing is, with that amount of unceasing rain falling from the sky, there is nothing you can do to stay dry and warm. Add that the weather was freezing. And add that the trail started to be slippery and puddly. 

I managed to survive the day. It was a big part of the equation, thanks to the tour guide that supports me and knew what to do in the moments that mattered. And also of the joy I felt of being there, of being brave enough to do the task and live the adventure. 

In a nutshell, I had one of the worst and one of the best days of my life. As more often than not, they were only one, where the good and the bad merged into one incredible and transformative life experience.

Read the Hiking tour Fitz Roy Valley full story – En proceso

What you’ve just read is my experience and what I learnt on my hiking days in El Chaltén. It is also my personal selection of the best hiking tours for finding spectacular scenery in Patagonia. 

As you imagine, there is much more in El Chaltén and many other corners of Patagonia.

If you’re about to travel, you’ll discover it soon enough. And if you are not, but want to have a deep-felt encounter with nature, I urge you to do it. 

At least once in your lifetime.