San Telmo is a bohemian neighborhood located near downtown Buenos Aires. It is not only famous for its cobblestone streets and graffiti artwork but also for its market: Mercado de San Telmo as the locals call it.
The San Telmo Market shouldn’t be confused with the San Telmo Fair, known for being open every Sunday on Defensa Street.
A little bit of history
It is located between the streets of Defensa, Bolívar, Estados Unidos and Carlos Calvo. The San Telmo Market was opened during 1897 in Buenos Aires with its uniquely Italian facade and spacious interiors.
The Tuscan-style building, constructed by the prolific Italian architect, Juan A. Buschiazzo, has a beautiful interior structure with a wrought iron and glass atrium. In the 1800s, it was the first market of its kind in the area and it helped to give San Telmo a fashionable and popular reputation.
Despite being in the oldest neighborhoods of the city, the San Telmo market was inaugurated in 1897 to supply the necessary provisions to the new wave of immigrants arriving from the Old Continent to Buenos Aires at the request of the pioneer and philanthropist Antonio Devoto, who asked the then Mayor Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear.
The San Telmo Market -declared National Historical Heritage in the year 2000- preserves its original internal structure with metal beams, arches and columns with sheet metal and glass roofs, and has a large dome in the center, a project by Juan Antonio Buschiazzo.
What should I know if I wish to visit the San Telmo Market?
Located in Buenos Aires, the San Telmo market is a place where past and present come together to offer a unique experience with antiques, handicrafts, records or old toys, restaurants, bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, greengrocers and thousands of curiosities for the visitors.
Open from Tuesdays to Sundays. During the week it is likely that some stalls will be closed; on Sundays it is the day with more places in operation and when more people visit it. From Tuesday to Friday it is open from 10:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., while on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays the hours are extended between 9:00 a.m. and 8:00 p.m.
The building has entrances through the four streets since two arms with exits to Defensa and Estados Unidos were added in 1930, the latter with a space for vehicles to enter, and which is not used today.
In addition, some places have their own entrance to the street, such as a restaurant and two notable bars in the city: San Pedro Telmo and La Coruña.
On leaving the market, a walk around Plaza Dorrego, which is only 100 meters away, is a traditional visit for tourists and locals.
In the past, this square was called “Hueco del Alto” or “Alto de las carretas”, because those carts pulled by oxen stopped there before crossing the Tercero del Sur stream, via Defensa and Chile, to enter the city. It changed its name to Alto de San Pedro and then Plaza del Comercio, in 1822 and 1900, respectively, until it took its current name.
A perfect stop for any meal!
Known as a gastronomic highlight of Buenos Aires, the San Telmo market offers falafel and shawarma from the Middle East, crepes from France, tapas and tortillas from Spain, empanadas and artisanal beers.
But that’s not all: chorizos de cerdo y cordero, gourmet regional products and picadas with pan and churros dulces y salados, can be found here, while people admire antiques and buy fruits and vegetables, as well as ubres that aren’t available in contemporary supermarkets.
A unique attraction in Buenos Aires, San Telmo market’s gastronomic proposal is complementary and synergistic: each place offers a menu that does not compete with the rest, with an open kitchen, fresh products bought in the market itself and personalized attention by its owners.
The culinary offer includes typical Swiss food, at Je Suis Raclette; French crepes, in Un dos crêpes; Spanish tapas and tortillas, at De Lucía and craft beer and BBQ braised beef in Hoboken.
There are also hamburgers, hot dogs and American breakfasts at The Market Burger; French bakery in Merci; regional gourmet and minced products in Green Olive; empanadas and Creole cuisine at El Hornero; and artisan sausages at La Choripanería.
For more information about the San Telmo Market and tours of Buenos Aires visit www.sayhueque.com
